Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4: Cavaleiro to Odeceixe

Distance: ~30 km

Trail Section: Cavaleiro to Odeceixe

Conditions: Sunny, hot, no wind or rain (!!), full-on Portugal in colour

(this article originally appeared on The Trek, which you can read here)

3 Good Things That Happened on Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4

• Hiked my longest stretch yet—30 km!—and caught up with our trail friends

• Discovered cork trees and learned Portugal is the top cork exporter

• Spotted dozens of storks perched on cliffs with the ocean behind them

Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4 took me from Cavaleiro to Odeceixe—a 30 km stretch that turned out to be my favorite day on trail so far. From stunning cliffside geology to storks nesting above the Atlantic, this day had it all!

Morning light along the Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4—steep cliffs, layered rocks, and the ocean stretching out forever. Pure trail magic.

A Long Day, But My Favorite So Far

Today was our biggest challenge on the Fisherman’s Trail so far: 30 kilometers in one go. We needed to catch up to Sandra and Oliver, who were still following the main itinerary after we shortened our hike yesterday.

We woke up early, packed up, and hit the trail with that slight edge of nerves that comes with a big mile day. I wasn’t sure how long it would take us - or how my body would hold up - but I was determined to find a steady rhythm and just keep moving.

And honestly? This turned out to be my favorite day yet.

BTW - if you missed my blog from yesterday on the Fisherman's Trail, I’d recommend checking it out!

The kind of trail view that makes you forget your tired legs. Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4 delivered wild cliffs, layered rocks, and that deep blue Portuguese sky. My favorite day yet.

Blue Skies and Full Sun (Finally!)

After days of rain and wind, the weather finally turned. Blue skies. No gusts. Warm sun on our skin. But of course… with stillness comes sweat. And by lunchtime, I’d already gone through my full 2.5L water capacity.

Note to self: body lotion is not sunscreen. My legs paid the price today!! Oops. 

Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4 came with full sun - and a not-so-gentle reminder that body lotion ≠ sunscreen. Hydrated? Yes. Protected? Not so much.

Terrain: A Bit of Everything

We moved through such varied terrain today. Cliffside paths with sweeping ocean views. Long road walks that I didn’t mind—our pace picked up, and the change in surface felt easier on my joints after so much sand. We ducked into pine forests and eucalyptus groves, where the scent of the trees made the heat feel a little less aggressive.

And then: cork trees. I’d never seen them before and was so excited to learn that Portugal is the world’s top exporter. Their bark is unlike anything else—textured, thick, kind of like nature’s armor. I love when hiking becomes a living classroom.

Cork trees spotted on Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 4 - rugged, textured, and totally unique. I had no idea Portugal was the world’s top cork exporter. Trail fact of the day!

Birds, Beaches, and Vinho

The birds today were next level—so many different calls, colors, and species. But the storks definitely stole the show. Their massive nests were perched right on the cliff edges, with the Atlantic crashing behind them. It was honestly one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen.

We paused for a while just to watch them. I kept wondering—how do their nests even stay up there? They’re so exposed, especially with the heavy coastal winds. And yet… there they were, totally unbothered.

I couldn’t help but smile, remembering how storks were the “baby delivery birds” when we were kids. If that’s true, they’ve got a pretty epic delivery route out here.

Around lunchtime, we reached Azenha do Mar, where we finally caught up with Sandra and Oliver - a lot earlier than we expected!

They were finishing a delicious seafood meal, and Sandra offered me a sip of her vinho verde—cold, slightly bubbly, and perfect. You can bet I’ll be ordering a glass tonight!

PS. If you’re wondering what drew me to the Fisherman’s Trail, I wrote all about it here!

A stork perched on its cliffside nest with the Atlantic behind it - so exposed to the wind, yet perfectly at home. One of the coolest wildlife moments on the trail so far.

A closer look at one of the storks nesting along the cliffs. Totally unbothered by the crashing waves or strong winds—just doing its thing.

That Final Stretch

The last few kilometers were tough. My legs were toast, the sun was still blazing, and I could feel every step in my body. But having company made all the difference. We walked the final stretch together—talking, laughing, and letting conversation carry us through the fatigue.

I arrived in Odeceixe feeling proud and exhausted in the best way. All I could think about was food and wine. We checked into our apartment at Residência do Parque—a simple place, but it had a cozy bed and a hot shower, which was all I needed. After rinsing off the day’s sweat and slipping into my town clothes, we headed across the street to a restaurant called Chaparro.

Dinner was perfect: fresh fish, potatoes, grilled veggies, and chilled white wine. After hiking 30 kilometers, it was one of the most satisfying and well-deserved meals I’ve ever had.

30 km later… tired, sun-drunk, and proud. This is the good kind of tired.

Today Felt Like Portugal in Full Color

After 30 km, I can honestly say that after 4 days of hiking, today is the day I completely fell in love with the Fisherman’s Trail.

Today had everything: big blue skies, dramatic geology, new terrain, playful moments, and the quiet magic of storks nesting on cliffs. Even with the sunburn, sore legs, and long stretch of trail, I felt more connected to this hike—and to myself—than I have all week.

Long-distance hiking is such a wild balance between effort and ease, and today reminded me just how capable I’ve become. Not just in my body, but in trusting that I can handle whatever comes my way—mile by mile.

Tomorrow, we keep heading south. But for now: some relaxation and legs up the wall before sleep!