Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 3: Almograve to Cavaleiro

Distance: ~10 km 

Trail Direction: Southbound 

Conditions: Fog, wind, eucalyptus-scented forests, and rain… again

3 Good Things That Happened Today

• Smelled eucalyptus and walked through soft pine forest trails

• Found a random outdoor exercise circuit and played like kids

• Spotted storks, shags, and redstarts while bird watching along the cliffs

Fisherman’s Trail Day 3 from Almograve to Cavaleiro surprised me with ever-changing terrain—misty forests, red sand cliffs, and quiet ocean views. This shorter stretch offered a much-needed reset after two full trail days, blending moments of play with pure stillness along Portugal’s rugged coastline.

Day 3 brought moody skies, crashing waves, and this—sandstone cliffs that stopped me in my tracks. Portugal’s coastline continues to blow me away.

Today was our shortest day so far on the Fisherman’s Trail. Orion and I took a slightly different itinerary compared to the suggested Fisherman Trail. We wouldn't be hiking with Sandra and Oliver today, who would be completing the full suggested day itinerary from Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar. 

We all had a slow morning. I slept in a bit while Oliver made veggie frittata (hero move), and I used the time to catch up on some admin things before check-out. Oliver and Sandra headed out early as they had about 20km+ to complete today and Orion and I left our apartment at checkout around 11am. We packed up and stopped for a quick coffee in town. I finally found my go-to coffee in Portugal called a "meia de leite" (a flat white), and they are so delicious! While I was drinking my coffee, Orion and I ended up chatting with a guy from Colorado Springs who was road tripping around Portugal. I love those little spontaneous trail chats with strangers that make the world feel smaller.

What I Saw on Fisherman’s Trail Day 3: Almograve to Cavaleiro

As Sandra and Oliver walked ahead today with a longer stretch, Orion and I took it slow.

The trail today gave us a mix of coastal cliffs, pine forest paths, and ocean fog. At one point, mist drifted up from the sea and hugged the trees along the edge of the cliffs. It was breathtaking—soft and moody in that way only fog can be.

It was the first day on the Fisherman's Trail that it took us inland which was really enjoyable experiencing a new landscape and walking through green tunnels. After two days of battling wind and trudging through sand, walking through soft pine needles and smelling eucalyptus in the trees felt so calming. It reminded me that this trail isn’t just about dramatic views—it’s also about sensory grounding, about feeling your body soften into the landscape.

Walking through green tunnels and soft pine needles. After days of wind and sand, this stretch felt like a deep exhale.

But what surprised me most today was how suddenly the landscape changed. One minute we were walking through soft pine forest with eucalyptus in the air, and the next, we were surrounded by deep red sand and rich sandstone cliffs. The tones of the trail shifted fast—like the whole coastline was revealing another side of itself. I kept stopping to take it in: the contrast of dark earth against moody skies, and how different it felt underfoot. It’s one of my favorite things about long-distance hiking—you never know what’s coming around the corner.

From green forest to deep red sand in a matter of minutes. The Fisherman’s Trail changes fast—and today, it felt like walking through another world.

Trail Surprises & Cliffside Lunch

Somewhere along the way, we stumbled across a random outdoor workout circuit tucked into the woods. It had monkey bars and pull-up bars, and we couldn’t resist. We played like kids—doing push-ups, trying (and failing) to do proper dips with our packs on, and just laughing. I didn’t expect to feel joy mid-hike from playing on monkey bars, but here we are!

Caught mid-swing on the monkey bars—with a backpack, of course. Trail joy looks different every day, and today it looked like this.

Later in the day, we found a quiet cliff to have lunch on. The wind was strong, but the spot was just sheltered enough to feel like a tiny refuge from the crashing ocean. We sat there eating delicious left over pasta & mussels and just breathing it all in. More fog rolled across the water as we watched seabirds circling overhead.

Cliffside lunch with leftover mussels, pasta, and a view that made everything taste better. Windy, salty, quiet—trail perfection.

Birdwatching Bonus

One of the surprises of the day was how many birds we spotted. We saw shags, redstarts, and even a stork nesting in a cliffside nook. It made me wish I knew more about birds (and had binoculars!). Still, it felt special—like the trail giving us a quiet little wildlife show.

Rolling into Cavaleiro

We arrived in Cavaleiro just before the rain started again. Even with such a short day, I felt exhausted. I think I underestimated how much energy it takes to walk through sand and wind every day—even if the kilometers are low.

Although we arrived in time for check-in, our apartment still wasn't ready so we walked around the town to explore. And there really wasn't much to see. One small grocery store, a cafe, and local restaurant. When we checked in, I took advantage of having a washing machine and washed our clothes and hung them out to dry outside. Unfortunately within a few minutes it started downpouring, so I brought the clothes back in and hung them around the house. My socks will probably still be wet tomorrow, but at least they'll smell nice!

PS. If you’re wondering what drew me to the Fisherman’s Trail, I wrote all about it here!

Trail luxury: a washing machine. Sure, my socks are still wet... but at least they smell like eucalyptus detergent and hope.

I didn't feel too inspired by our restaurant options, so Orion and I stayed in and cooked again. Luckily we both packed out some dinner options as back up. Orion was cooking ramen and I boiled up some water to cook my deydrated fettucine from backpacker's pantry. These dehydrated meals are seriously good! We relaxed and just hung out on the couch. We got to bed nice and early because tomorrow we have to catch up to Sandra and Oliver and hike 30km from Cavaleiro to Odeceixe. It's been a while since I've hiked that kind of distance, I'm excited to see how it feels!

Home for the night. Nothing fancy, but exactly what we needed—dry space, hot food, and a couch to crash on before tomorrow’s big day.

3 Lessons from Day 3 on the Fisherman Trail in Portugal 

• Learning new trees while hiking so much fun - today I finally discovered what a eucalyptus tree looks like!

• Trail meals don't need to be fancy to be delicious - hydrated fettuccine after a day of walking is divine.

• Don't take yourself too seriously. Being playful is a great way to tune in with your inner child and be silly.

Three days in, and I’m fully in it. The Fisherman’s Trail continues to surprise me—through its textures, moods, and quiet beauty. I’m feeling tired, content, and very, very present.

More tomorrow from the path ahead. 

Boa noite from Cavaleiro! 💛      

NEXT post: Day 4 – Cavaleiro to Odeceixe