I Hiked The Fisherman's Trail in Portugal - Here’s How Day 1 Went

Chloé Jacobs
Aug 6
6 min read

Updated: Aug 17

This article originally appeared on The Trek, which you can read here

Day 1 on the Fisherman's Trail in Portugal: Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes

Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 1 kicked off with sunshine, ocean views, and that buzzing feeling of starting something new. We began our hike along the Rota Vicentina, and it’s already been an amazing day. Here’s how it went:

3 Good Things That Happened Today

I walked barefoot along the sandy Portuguese coastline in the sunshine
I tried gooseneck barnacles (percebes!) for the first time—and loved them
Ended a rainy, windy day with a hot shower, pasta, and the best company

Getting to the Trailhead

Orion and I drove my VW Caddy camper van from Spain to Portugal over two days, road-tripping through the countryside and soaking up the early spring sun. When we arrived in Sagres, I was able to leave the van parked at the hotel where we’ll be staying at the end of the hike. They didn’t charge extra and even gave us a little hidden parking spot that felt tucked away and safe—a huge relief when you’re leaving your vehicle for two weeks.

From there, we caught the Rede Expressos bus north to Porto Covo, a 2.5-hour ride that cost just €9 for both of us. The bus was hot (AC wasn't super efficient), but it gave us a chance to preview some of the trail towns we’d be hiking through in reverse—Aljezur, Almograve, and others. Meanwhile, our friends Sandra and Oliver, who we met on the Pacific Crest Trail back in 2023, were flying in from Zurich and catching a bus from Lisbon to meet us in Porto Covo. This is a reunion we’ve been looking forward to for months!!

PS. If you’re wondering what drew me to the Fisherman’s Trail, I wrote all about it here!

A Rede Expressos bus parked on a sunny street in Sagres Portugal, ready to transport hikers to the trailhead. — The Rede Expressos bus is such an easy way to get from the city to the start of the trail—and it’s super affordable too! Highly recommend if you’re hiking the Rota Vicentina.

Arrival in Porto Covo - The Starting Point of the Fisherman's Trail

We arrived in town around 6:30 p.m. and walked to our accommodation at Apartamentos Rosa, a clean and comfortable spot close to the trail. That evening, we reunited with Sandra and Oliver and grabbed dinner together at a seaside restaurant.

We shared a bottle of white wine, ordered octopus, and spotted a local table eating something we didn’t recognize. We asked about it and learned it was percebes, also known as gooseneck barnacles—a local delicacy that’s famously difficult (and dangerous) to harvest. They grow on wave-battered rocks and are collected by hand, often during rough sea conditions. Naturally, we had to try them—and they were delicious. Salty, briny, and unlike anything I’ve eaten before. One of those unexpected travel highlights!

After dinner, we walked back to our apartment, buzzing with excitement to start the trail the next morning.

A cozy, whitewashed apartment building with blue trim in Porto Covo, Portugal—simple and charming accommodation under a clear sky — For our first night on the Rota Vicentina, we stayed at Apartamentos Rosa in Porto Covo. Clean, comfy, and right in town—great little spot to kick things off!

Trail Start Day

We had a slow start the next morning—packing up, meeting for breakfast at a local bakery, and soaking in that feeling of excitement before a big journey. I ordered a galão, a Portuguese-style latte, and a few pastries including a pastel de nata. It wouldn’t be a trip to Portugal without one! The galão was nice, but quite milky—tomorrow I’ll try something closer to a flat white for a stronger kick.

A galão (Portuguese latte) and a plate of assorted pastries, including a golden pastel de nata, sitting on an outdoor café table. — First breakfast on trail did not disappoint! I went with a galão (a classic Portuguese latte) and a few pastries—including, of course, a pastel de nata. You have to have one of these pastries in Portugal!

We reached the Rota Vicentina trail sign just after 9:30 a.m., snapped a few starting-line photos, and officially began our hike.

We were giddy. There’s something so special about setting out on a multi-day trail, especially with good friends beside you and the ocean just steps away.

Four friends smiling in a selfie at the start of the Rota Vicentina trail, standing in front of the official trail sign on a sunny day. — New trail, same awesome energy. Starting the Rota Vicentina with these PCT pals—Portugal’s not ready for us!!

Not far from the trailhead, I spotted a Camino de Santiago sign—the Central Route Stage 6 runs through Porto Covo to Sines. I didn’t realize how interconnected these trail networks are across Europe, and I loved that the Camino energy showed up here too.

Super fun that the Rota Vicentina intersects with the Portuguese Camino de Santiago! Loved the trail energy running through this first town—pilgrims, hikers, and lots of good vibes

Observations of the Rota Vicentina So Far

Just from Day 1 hiking the Rota Vicentina along the Fisherman's Trail, here are a few things I’ve noticed already:

The tap water is safe to drink, but the taste isn’t great. I’m really glad I packed electrolytes and Tang powder to improve the flavor and make hydration more enjoyable.
I’ve seen a lot of hikers buying plastic water bottles, which honestly bums me out. One of the main reasons I hike is to reduce my footprint, and it feels wrong to contribute to single-use waste on trail. I’m carrying a reusable bottle and keeping things low-waste.
I’ll be experimenting with different coffee styles while I’m here. Galão is tasty, but a bit too milky for me. Tomorrow I’m on the hunt for something closer to a meia de leite or flat white.
Learning Portuguese goes a long way. Most people speak some English, but making the effort to learn a few basic phrases has already made a big difference in connecting with locals.

A few I’ve picked up:

“Obrigado/a” – Thank you
“Muito obrigado/a” – Thank you very much
“Um galão, por favor” – A latte, please
“Olá” – Hello
“Bom dia” – Good morning

Highly recommend picking up a few essentials—it adds depth to the cultural experience and feels like a respectful way to travel.

Learning little phrases like “muito obrigada” (thank you very much!) is such a sweet part of traveling. That, and stopping every five minutes to admire the wildflowers

Trail Highlights: Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes

The trail was busier than expected, with lots of other hikers out enjoying the coastal views. The trail is almost entirely sandy, which means your legs are working harder than they would on a packed dirt path. We walked past bright green shrubs, wildflowers in bloom, jagged cliffs, and constant views of the ocean to our right. The biodiversity here is incredible—especially between March and June. Some of the plants are endemic to this exact stretch of coast and nowhere else in the world. Eventually, we dropped down to the beach, and I took my shoes off to walk barefoot in the cool, wet sand. That moment alone made the whole day worth it.

Jagged black cliffs with wave-carved, wavy rock formations along the Portuguese coastline, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. — The dramatic coastline isn’t just about the ocean views—it’s packed with wild geological formations too. These black cliffs and wave-shaped rocks were so cool to explore. Rugged, raw, and beautiful.

We stopped for lunch in a little cove to shelter from the wind and ate the simple sandwiches we’d made the day before in Sagres. After lunch, we followed the blue and green Rota Vicentina markers back onto the cliffs and continued walking along the coastline. The views were jaw-dropping—endless horizons, dramatic rock formations, and the kind of color palette you wish you could bottle up forever.

A close-up of blue and green painted trail markers on a wooden post along the Rota Vicentina, symbolizing the ocean, sky, earth, and vegetation. — The trail is really well marked so far! Just follow these blue and green stripes—the blue represents the ocean and sky, and the green stands for the land and vegetation. Simple and beautiful

The last hour of hiking was intense. The wind picked up sharply and the sand was blowing so hard it stung my face. I’ve never been sandblasted like that before. I threw on my windbreaker and pulled my buff up to cover my mouth and nose, but it was still rough. My eyes were watering, and my jacket felt like a sail. And then, just for fun, the rain joined in.

It was wet, windy, and wild. We were soaked through but laughing. There’s something about being out in the elements that strips everything back—you just keep walking.

A hiker in a windbreaker, hood up and flapping in the strong coastal wind, standing on a trail with dramatic ocean views in the background. — Getting sandblasted, rained on, and fully windswept… but how can you be mad when the views look like this?! Coastal hiking at its finest!

The Final Push + Arrival in Vila Nova de Milfontes

We arrived in Vila Nova de Milfontes cold, wet, and so ready to be inside. The lobby at Hotel M&S Milfontes was packed with hikers, all arriving at the same time, so we had to wait a little while to check in. But when we got to our apartment, it was total trail luxury—two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a kitchen. We took hot showers, dried off our gear, and finally settled in.

Three hikers standing in a hotel reception area, drenched from the rain but smiling brightly. They’re wearing wet rain gear and look happy despite the weather. — Soaked to the core from the rain, but still all smiles from these three legends—Orion, Oliver, and Sandra! Grateful for cozy hotels and good company

Oliver headed to the grocery store and picked up ingredients for a homemade dinner. We cooked pasta with mussels, opened a bottle of wine, and ate around the table like a little trail family. It was one of those meals that just hits after a full day outside.

Despite the wind and rain, the day was everything I hoped it would be. Starting this hike with friends, along the ocean, under big skies—it already feels like something special.