Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 2: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve

Distance: ~11 km

Trail Direction: Southbound

Conditions: Sandy, rain, wind, sun… and everything in between

3 Good Things That Happened Today

• Took a cute ferry across the river to start the day (saving some trail miles)

• Enjoyed leftover beer and lunch with my friends mid-hike

• Spent nearly an hour sitting on a cliff, just watching the waves crash

Starting strong on Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 2—wildflowers in bloom, soft sandy paths, and the first hints of sunshine after a stormy start!

Starting strong on Day 2 of the Fisherman’s Trail—wildflowers in bloom, soft sandy paths, and the first hints of sunshine after a stormy start.

After the stormy adventure we had yesterday—complete with sideways rain, wild wind, and sandblasting—I was pretty grateful for a slower morning. We decided not to rush out the door, especially since it was pouring when we first woke up.

Instead, we gave ourselves permission to wait. Eventually, the skies cleared just enough for us to pack up and hit the trail. And wow—it felt like such a luxury to put on hiking clothes that were actually dry after yesterday’s soaking. On longer thru-hikes like the PCT or Colorado Trail, I’m used to pulling on cold, damp clothes whether I like it or not. So starting the day dry? Total trail luxury!

A rare and beautiful sight for any long-distance hiker—dry clothes after a soaking wet day on trail. Starting Day 2 warm, dry, and feeling like absolute luxury.

A Sunny Pause and a Quick Ferry on Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 2

Our hike began with a short ferry ride across the Mira River—a five-minute boat trip that cost €5 and saved us several kilometers of road-walking to the nearest bridge. When we arrived at the pier, it was clear that many hikers had the same idea. The ferry was running behind, and about 50 of us were waiting together on the beach.

But honestly? It was kind of perfect. The sun had come out, the beach was peaceful, and we weren’t in a rush. That warm, dry pause after a stormy day felt like one of those small but special trail moments that stay with you.

Once across the river after a short 5 minute boat ride, we were officially back on the Fisherman’s Trail, heading south toward Almograve.

BTW - if you missed my blog from Day 1 on the Fisherman's Trail, I’d recommend checking it out out so you can follow along on this journey from the very beginning!

The ferry was running late—but no one seemed to mind. Dozens of hikers gathered at the river’s edge, all waiting for the same peaceful ride across the Mira.

Soaking up some sun while we waited for the ferry to arrive. After yesterday’s rain and wind, this little stretch of stillness felt like gold.

A Quieter Day, but Not Without Weather

Compared to Day 1, today was shorter—just 11 kilometers—and the terrain was a little easier, with fewer sand dunes and more packed paths. That said, the weather kept us guessing all day. One moment we had sunshine and wildflowers, the next we were dodging wind gusts and rain showers.

I kept debating whether I’d rather be wet from rain or sweaty from wearing my rain jacket. There wasn’t really a good answer, so I just kept swapping layers all day.

Rain jacket on, rain jacket off... repeat. Day 2 kept us guessing with surprise showers and wind bursts—classic trail roulette.

Despite the weather, the trail was beautiful again - cliffside views, crashing waves, and fields of blooming wildflowers.

One of my favorite moments on Fisherman’s Trail Portugal Day 2 was sitting on a cliff, shoes off, watching the waves crash into the rocks below. That stillness—between gusts of wind and bursts of sunshine—was a moment I’ll remember long after this trip is over.

We spent nearly an hour there, watching waves slam against the rocks below, spray flying, the ocean never stopping. I took off my shoes and let my feet breathe—something I always do on long hikes to prevent hot spots and blisters. It’s also becoming a daily ritual to dump out the piles of sand that collect in my shoes (note to self: bring gaiters next time).

As I sat there barefoot on the cliff, I found myself wondering: how are waves actually formed? I know it has to do with wind and gravity and the moon, but there’s something so mysterious and rhythmic about them when you're watching in real-time. Something to Google later.

Taking a moment to sit, breathe, and watch the waves roll in. After all the rain, this was the pause I didn’t know I needed.

New trail ritual: dumping out half the beach from my shoes. (Reminder to self: pack gaiters next time.)

Trail Snacks, Trash Talk & Trail Friends

For lunch, we pulled out leftovers from last night—roasted vegetables, hot dogs, and a couple of beers we didn’t finish. We found a hollow out of the wind and turned it into a cozy little picnic. We ended up reminiscing about the PCT and our favorite moments from that trail. It’s such a gift to be walking with people who shared that experience.

PS. If you’re wondering what drew me to the Fisherman’s Trail, I wrote all about it here!

Trail lunch, packed out beer, good friends, and old PCT stories. Simple and perfect.

But not everything today was beautiful.

I was pretty disappointed by the amount of trash we saw on and around the trail, especially near beach access points. I know we’re in a more tourist-heavy section of Portugal, but it’s still frustrating. For hikers, the principle of Leave No Trace should be a given. And it wasn’t just trash—today I also saw people cutting across fragile coastal plants to avoid walking in the sand dunes.

Yes, sand hiking is tiring. But trampling on sensitive vegetation—especially in protected dune ecosystems—is not the solution. Please stay on trail. Respect the places we walk through. Ok, rant over (for now)!

Hard to see this on trail. Please, respect the land—pack it out, stay on trail, and help protect the places we love.

Arriving in Almograve

We arrived in Almograve in the late afternoon. It’s a small town, but it has everything you need: two local grocery shops, a bakery/coffee spot hidden in the back of one of them, and a few restaurants—including a highly recommended Nepali place right across from where we were staying.

After grabbing a few supplies, we checked into our very spacious apartment just outside of town. We are definitely leaning into a more luxurious style of hiking this time around—and I’m not mad about it.

Sandra and Oliver went to grab dinner from the Nepali spot, while Orion and I stayed in and cooked a simple meal of roasted veggies and (yep) hot dogs. It was an easy, comforting way to end a day that felt both energizing and a little draining, thanks to the mix of elements.

Rolling into Almograve in the late afternoon—small town vibes, a cozy grocery store, and everything we needed after a windy day on trail.

Trail luxury: a warm bed, a roof over our heads, and dry socks. Not every night on trail feels like this—and I’m soaking it up.

3 Lessons I’m Carrying from Today

1. The weather can—and will—change fast. Be ready for sun, wind, and sideways rain… all in one hour. 

2. Stillness is not wasted time. Sitting on a cliff and doing absolutely nothing is sometimes the most important part of the day. 

3. Traveling light doesn’t mean you can’t eat well. Leftovers + good company + a view = happiness. 

Two days in, and I’m already in love with this trail. I didn’t expect it to feel so remote, so raw, and so diverse this early on. The cliff views, the wildflowers, the mix of terrain—it’s all been incredible, and we haven’t even reached the most beautiful parts yet.

That trail rhythm is starting to kick in: wake up, walk, eat, rest, notice. Repeat.

More tomorrow from the path ahead.

Wind in my face, salt in the air, and a full heart. Two days into the Fisherman’s Trail Portugal, and I’m already falling for this rugged coastal path.

NEXT post: Day 3 – Almograve to Cavaleiro