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The West Highland Way: A 2026 Complete Guide + My Itinerary Through Scotland’s Highlands

The West Highland Way (WHW) is Scotland’s most famous long-distance walk — a 96-mile (154 km) journey through lochs, moors, mountains, and classic Highland charm.


Beginning in Milngavie near Glasgow and ending in Fort William beneath Ben Nevis, it’s a hike that’s both beginner-friendly and rewarding for seasoned adventurers alike.


Whether you plan to wild camp, stay in cozy B&Bs, or mix the two, this guide covers everything you need to know — from route highlights to packing tips and must-see spots along the way.


The beginning of the West Highland Way
The West Highland Way (WHW) is Scotland’s most famous long-distance walk. 96-miles (154 kms) through lochs, moors, and magical Highland charm.

West Highland Way at a Glance

Location: Scottish Highlands, Scotland

Length: 96 miles / 154 km

Typical Duration: 6–9 days (I took 11 with side trips and rest days)

Difficulty: Moderate — steady terrain but long days and unpredictable weather

Best Time to Hike: Late April to October

Trail Type: Point-to-point (train or bus needed to return to Glasgow)


Useful Links

Recommended Navigation Tools:


Screenshot of route of the West Highland Way in Scotland
A sample route for the West Highland Way sourced from the official website

Getting There

Start: Milngavie, just 25 minutes by train from Glasgow Queen Street. You'll find the official WHW obelisk right in the town center — it’s a bit surreal standing there knowing you’re about to walk across the Highlands!


Finish: Fort William, at the foot of Ben Nevis.From there, you can catch a train or bus back to Glasgow (around 4–5 hours).


Most hikers travel south to north (Milngavie → Fort William) — the scenery builds dramatically each day, and you finish surrounded by some of Scotland’s most breathtaking peaks.


Photo of the streets of Glasgow, near the starting point of the West Highland Way
Spend a night in Glasgow and then make your way to Milngavie for the starting point of the West Highland Way

Why Hike the West Highland Way?

Scotland’s hiking culture is something special — equal parts rugged adventure and warm hospitality. The West Highland Way perfectly blends both.


It’s beginner-friendly but never boring: one day you’re wandering farmland and lochside paths, the next you’re high above sweeping glens and open moorland. You can go light with a daypack and luggage transfers or carry everything and wild camp in the wild beauty of the Highlands.


Each night ends somewhere memorable — a family-run B&B, a pub with live fiddle music, or a tent pitched under the stars. And because the WHW is so well-marked and well-loved, it’s a great first long-distance hike for anyone new to backpacking in Europe.


The West Highland Way passport and stamps
The West Highland Way passport is a fun keepsake, with stamps collected in towns and landmarks along the trail as you make your way to Fort William.

Trail Highlights

  • Choose Your Own Adventure: Whether you'd like to wild camp, stay in B&Bs, use luggage services like Travel-Lite, the West Highland Way truly has options for every hiking style.

  • WHW passport: A fun keepsake you can collect stamps for at various points along the route, making for a unique memento of your journey.

  • Conic Hill: First notable climb with sweeping views over Loch Lomond and the Highlands ahead.

  • Loch Lomond: Miles of rocky, rooty singletrack winding right along the edge of Scotland’s largest freshwater loch.

  • Rannoch Moor: The most remote section of the WHW. Open landscape with no roads or villages, just wide horizons and heather.

  • Honesty boxes: Small self-serve stands along the trail stocked with snacks, drinks, and treats for walkers. You simply help yourself and leave payment in the box.

  • Devil’s Staircase: A steady climb that marks the highest point of the WHW, followed by a long descent into Kinlochleven.

  • Ben Nevis: Scotland’s highest peak looms over the finish in Fort William, and if you have the time (and energy), you can tag the summit as a bonus climb.


A unique experience on the WHW - honesty boxes like Ben Bakes let you grab a treat and leave some cash of PayPal.
A unique experience on the WHW - honesty boxes like Ben Bakes let you grab a treat and leave some cash of PayPal.

Weather on the WHW

If you’ve ever heard that Scotland can have four seasons in a day, believe it.

Expect sunshine, drizzle, sideways rain, and wind — sometimes all before lunch.That said, don’t let the forecast scare you. With good layers and a sense of humor, you’ll be fine.

Average Conditions:

  • Spring (Apr–May): 10–15°C (50–60°F), wildflowers, fewer midges

  • Summer (Jun–Aug): 12–20°C (54–68°F), long days, peak midge season

  • Autumn (Sep–Oct): 5–12°C (41–54°F), colourful foliage, quieter trails


Tip: Bring a midge head net if hiking in summer. You’ll thank yourself later.


A hiker on the WHW bundled up to stay warm
Scotland serves up sunshine, wind, rain, and midges - sometimes all in one day. Pack layers so you're ready for whatever Scotland decides to throw at you.

Gear I Recommend

This isn’t a gear-intensive trail, but weatherproofing is everything.

Essentials:

  • Reliable waterproof jacket and rain pants

  • Trail runners or light boots (plus gaiters for mud)

  • Layering system: base layer + fleece + shell

  • Trekking poles for steep descents

  • Midge net + repellent

  • Dry bags or a pack liner


Pro tip: Don’t overpack. You’re never far from a village or shop on the WHW, so you can carry less food and pick up supplies along the way. The lighter your pack, the more you’ll enjoy those lochside scrambles and Munro summits. 


A lightweight pack is ideal for the West Highland way. But you can also enjoy luggage services like Travel-Lite
A lightweight pack is ideal for the West Highland way. But you can also enjoy luggage services like Travel-Lite

Wild Camping & Campsites

Wild camping is allowed almost everywhere in Scotland under the Land Reform (Scotland) Act, as long as you follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code — leave no trace and camp discreetly.


There’s one exception: Loch Lomond’s camping management zone, where wild camping is restricted (March–September). Use designated sites or book a permit for this section.


There are also plenty of designated sites with facilities: Balmaha, Inverarnan, Tyndrum, Kinlochleven, and Fort William. Expect to pay £10 to £20 per night ($13–$25 USD)


Here are some popular campsites along the West Highland Way:


In summer, pre-book official sites where you can.


Towns & Lodging

The WHW passes through or near villages almost every day, making it ideal if you want a bed, shower, and hearty breakfast. These are my recommended stops:


Think of it as inn-to-inn hiking: comfortable rooms, full Scottish breakfasts, and drying rooms for wet gear.


Picture of the hotel room in Bridge of Orchy Hotel on the West Highland Way
The West Highland Way is perfect for inn-to-inn hiking, with welcoming village stays like Bridge of Orchy Hotrl offering a warm bed and hearty meals.

Resupply Options

Food is easy to find with a little planning. If camping, plan grocery stops carefully. Glasgow and Tyndrum are the largest resupply points.


  • Glasgow: M&S, Tesco, Co-Op, outdoor gear shops.

  • Milngavie: Spar grocery, sells gas canisters.

  • Drymen (mile 12): Small shop, bakery, grocery store.

  • Balmaha (mile 20): Village store, cafe, restaurant.

  • Crianlarich: Slightly off-trail, has a small shop.

  • Tyndrum (mile 52): Multiple shops and cafes

  • Kinlochleven (mile 81): Grocery store, pubs.

  • Fort William: Supermarkets, outdoor stores, restaurants.


Photo of the Green Welly Stop in Tyndru,
Tyndrum's Green Welly Stop is a popular stop on the WHW for trail snacks and a quick break before heading back out.

Food & Pubs Along the Way

One of the joys of the WHW is never being far from a hot meal. Whether you want a full Scottish breakfast, a pub lunch, or something quick to take away, you’ll find at least one option in nearly every stop along the route.


Here are a few can’t-miss stops:

  • Milngavie (0 mi) – Fullbacks Pizza Bar

  • Drymen (12 mi) – Clachan Inn

  • Balmaha (20 mi) – Oak Tree Inn 

  • Rowardennan (27 mi) – Rowardennan Hotel 

  • Inversnaid (34 mi) – Inversnaid Hotel 

  • Inverarnan (41 mi) – Drovers Inn

  • Tyndrum (52 mi) – The Real Food Cafe 

  • Bridge of Orchy (60 mi) – Bridge of Orchy Hotel (best meal on trail)

  • Kingshouse (71 mi) – Kingshouse Hotel 

  • Glencoe Village (off-trail, ~75 mi) – Clachaig Inn

  • Kinlochleven (81 mi) – Highland Getaway 

  • Fort William (96 mi) – Black Isle Brewery (perfect place to celebrate!)


A photo of the Clachan Inn 1734 sign in Dryden on the WHW
One of the oldest licensed pub's in Scotland - The Clachan Inn - you'll need to make a reservation!

Water Sources

Streams, burns, and loch access are common along the WHW, and in most seasons you won’t need to carry more than a liter or two between stops. Tap water at official campsites and in towns is readily available, fresh, and clean — it’s one of the highlights of hiking in Scotland. Even so, it’s smart to filter or treat water from natural sources, especially after heavy rain. I love my Platypus Quickdraw for water filters!


The Most Popular Itinerary (The Official 8-Day West Highland Way Itinerary)


The West Highland Way official website provides multiple suggested itineraries ranging from 5 to 7 days in length. Here’s an example of one of their suggested 8-day itineraries. 



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My Suggested 11-Day Itinerary

While the official 8-day West Highland Way itinerary is great for those on a tight schedule, I decided to modify this itinerary to allow for more time and recovery days. It’s a 11-day itinerary, including a day to summit Ben Lomond and another day to explore Glencoe (home to some epic scenes from James Bond). I always split one day that would have been 15 miles into 2 x 7 mile days. I’m really happy I did this! 


  • Glasgow → Milngavie: 9 miles / 14.5 km

  • Milngavie → Drymen: 12 miles / 19 km

  • Drymen → Rowardennan: 15 miles / 24 km

  • Rowardennan → Ben Lomond (side trip): 9.5 miles / 15 km

  • Rowardennan → Inversnaid: 7 miles / 11 km

  • Inversnaid → Inverarnan: 7 miles / 11 km

  • Inverarnan → Bridge of Orchy: 19 miles / 30 km

  • Bridge of Orchy → Kingshouse: 10 miles / 16 km

  • Kingshouse → Glencoe (explore): 7 miles / 11 km

  • Kingshouse → Kinlochleven: 9 miles / 14.5 km

  • Kinlochleven → Fort William: 15 miles / 24 km


If you’d like to read what each day on this itinerary actually looked like – including where I stayed, what I ate, and the best photo spots – check out my WHW daily blog series on The Trek.


A hiker walking up Devil's Staircase on the West Highland Way
The Devil's Staircase is the West Highland Way's highest point, a steady climb followed by a long descent into Kinlochleven.

Final Thoughts

The WHW is more than a walk — it’s an invitation to reconnect with yourself, to slow down, to remember the joy of putting one foot in front of the other. By the time you reach Fort William, you’ll be tired, happy, and a little changed (in the best way).


Fort William marks the end of the West Highland Way, with ScotRail trains connecting you back to Glasgow or onward to explore more of the Highlands
Fort William marks the end of the West Highland Way, with ScotRail trains connecting you back to Glasgow or onward to explore more of the Highlands

If you want more stories like this, plus practical tools to help you feel confident planning your own adventures, come hang out in my newsletter 💌 Wild Hearts Club 💌 . It’s a community of travelers, hikers, and everyday dreamers who believe in living boldly, embracing nature, and cheering each other on.


You’ll get thoughtful notes from me, trail-tested advice, and the kind of honesty you can only share with a long-distance best friend.

 
 
 

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